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Her name is Jane Law and if you check out her IMDB ( she has worked about a million of the best costume movies out there, sometimes as a cutter, sometimes as principal costume maker, sometimes making specific pieces for a movie (ie, for Ever After, she did all of Angelica Huston's costumes and the Breathe dress)
But about how much attitudes to dress codes have changed over the last 30 years
Beginning chains count as a stitch except when stated otherwise throughout the pattern
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