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Anthonys established way of cooking at Gramercy, with ever-changing seasonal elements and painstaking attention to detail, seemed to me incompatible with the higher-volume demands of a hotel kitchenthough, in one sense, Gramercy Taverns simplicity-perfected cuisine already is the ideal of hotel dining, minus the nuisances of a hotel, plus the exquisitely lavished attentions of a top-flight kitchen and world-class servers